Thanks to the open source technology, the original Creator has been proven to be a precise and high-quality 3D printer. With much advancement based on this proven and highly popular original model, Creator Pro takes the printing precision and quality to a new level, and it is featured with more possibilities. It is best-suited for enthusiasts and makers. And now the Creator Pro is more stylish and user-friendly in design. Full Enclosed Body. Direct Extruder. Cooling Fan. Open Source. Open-Source creates more possibilities.
Creator Pro is a straightforward 3D printer based on open source technology. Re: Issue Tue Dec 04, pm How do you know the bed is too low after a leveling? Is it an assumption since the filament doesn't stick? What is the bed surface? Is it the blue sheet? This sheet needs to be cleaned very good with alcohol. Also what material and bed temps are you using? What speeds? Also, when you do the leveling only level with the nozzle directly over the leveling screws.
Anywhere else will just cause issues. There's a good replacement on Thingiverse that provides multiple options, depending on the thickness of your paper and nozzle configuration. Black filament is the worse filament to work with, unless you have a very good quality source, it's performance varies all the time. It has a tendency to absorb and hold heat, which means it can cause problems with feeding, whole and partial jamming.
Try to print black with as cool a temp in the extruder that you can get away with. Check the groves in the filament driving wheel are free from plastic dust, which reduces friction. That kind of problem is not generally due to leveling or height issues, it's generally caused by problems feeding the filament. The transitions are too abrupt to be caused by a leveling issue. I suspect if you to print that again, the thin band would be In a different place.
Scratchy is the key. I have been adjusting to a barely felt resistance which led to much frustration. Mark Tuttle. Reply to author. Report message as abuse. Show original message. Either email addresses are anonymous for this group or you need the view member email addresses permission to view the original message. Hello all,. Does anyone have any advice on leveling this bed? I have been at this for hours and cannot get it level. I'm using the Build Plate Leveling sheet that came with the printer.
I'm doing the three corners, then the center and looking for the mild resistance. When I start printing, it's either so close that it jams up in the extruder and nothing comes out or it's too high and doesn't stick.
I've been trying both to dial it in. Do these work? My printer is pretty new and doesn't have the plateleveling. Just the menu option for Leveling which really does nothing. Any tips out there? I'm kinda dead in the water right now and falling back to my Printrbot which has zero issues with this. Tim Hawkins. One turn is about 0.
Rich Webb. The best way to tram the build plate is to do it "live. I like the three-lobed pattern of this one but there are many options. My box is set up with two leveling screws forward and one towards the back; rotate if necessary to put the lobes near the leveling screws. Use the paper feeler method to get close and then print the test pattern with if your slicer supports it a concentric infill to give continuous passes around the vicinity of each screw.
Gently adjust the leveling screws until you get a nice, even base layer that doesn't pull apart. If you're printing smaller objects, you can get a similar result by asking for multiple "skirt" or brim passes around the object and tweak those in without worrying about getting the entire build plate dead nuts on.
Hey Tim,. No, the paper must be able to slide. Mark Walker. The new script is better. You just move the print head by pushing it around with your hand. I usually do it by putting it over each screw location first and then checking the opposite corners. Ok, frustrated 3D printing post incoming. This is ridiculous. With as precise as 3d printing needs to be, I can't believe that bed leveling is reduced to such a "finger in the wind" process.
I have done every suggestion in every video and on every thread I have read. I have done the paper test about 40 times. Each time, I get a little resistance and think it's good. Then, when I try to do the test print, I get either no adhesion assume I'm too high , filament gunked up on the extruder assume I'm too low or I get one side but simply cannot dial in the other edges. How exactly are you supposed to level a 4 side plate with 3 screws, anyway? Why is there no way to zero out this position?
I considered taking the build plate apart so at least I could try to get to a point where things are roughly equal. I bought this printer because my Printrbot Simple Metal is having problems retaining M commands so I have to set the Z-axis by hand. THIS is a far worse issue on what is supposed to a better printer.
I really haven't gotten anything useful out of this unit to date. If anyone has any more suggestions, I would appreciate it.
I'm going to give this about another hour and then throw it back in the box. JF Kansas. Are you leveling the build plate at the temp you will be printing?
The Nozzle should be cold also when leveling. Is there any gunk on the end of the nozzle? Well, I thought I was getting close and then I get this. What is happening here? JF, I've done it both ways.
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